Nestled in the lush mountains of eastern Nara, Enjōji Temple overlooks a traditional Japanese garden and houses an array of Buddhist statuary, including a statue of Dainichi Buddha by the master sculptor Unkei (1150–1223). Temple records indicate that Enjōji was founded in 1026 by the monk Myōzen (dates unknown), and its precious cultural assets have survived centuries of turbulent history.
Traversing Centuries of Violence
Enjōji initially designated Eleven-Headed Kannon, the bodhisattva of compassion, the temple’s principal deity. However, in 1112, this role was transferred to Amida Buddha, a savior figure associated with the afterlife. This shift likely occurred due to increasing anxieties that the era of decline (mappō) had arrived and it was no longer possible to attain enlightenment through the historical Buddha’s teachings. In other words, with civil war and violent conflict sweeping across Japan, many believed they were living through the end of the world. In desperation, many turned to Amida Buddha, who is said to guarantee rebirth in his Pure Land free from suffering. By changing its principal deity to Amida, Enjōji could provide solace to parishioners during a tumultuous time.
Enjōji was largely destroyed during the onset of the Ōnin War (1467–77). However, the temple had received advance warning and was able to protect its statuary from the flames by entrusting them to nearby temples. Reconstruction efforts began the next year, and Enjōji was returned to its full glory with unusual speed.
The temple again faced peril during the Meiji period (1868–1912), when the government began to crack down on Buddhism as a “foreign” religion. Enjōji was greatly reduced in size but managed to retain many of its historical structures.
Buddhist Statuary and a Historic Garden
Tucked away in Enjōji’s verdant landscape are centuries-old treasures that have survived warfare and state suppression. In the face of all of these hardships, Enjōji’s monks have worked tirelessly to preserve the temple’s statuary and landscape into the present.
Today, Enjōji is best known for its statue of Dainichi Buddha. This now National Treasure is the earliest known work by Unkei, one of Japan’s most celebrated sculptors. The statue was completed in 1176 and was originally enshrined in the Tahōtō Pagoda. It has since been relocated to Sōōden Hall for preservation but is available for public viewing year-round.
The Main Hall of Enjōji enshrines other precious statuary that survived the temple’s destruction by warfare in 1467. These include statues of Eleven-Headed Kannon and Amida Buddha, the temple’s former and current principal deities, respectively.
Enjōji’s garden is one of few surviving shinden-style gardens from the Heian period (794–1185). These spacious gardens were built in the central courtyard of aristocratic residences and used to hold various ceremonies. However, most other examples were either destroyed or altered to fit new styles over time.